Moose1023 Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Hello guys, this is my first post on this forum and welcome all opinions as I have gained so much knowledge from reading all the posts on this forum. I bought a replacement 28a1 buttstock at a gunshow recently and applied 3 coats of pure tung oil and 3 coats of Tom's 1/3 mix. It came out well but does not have that red hue I was hoping for. I read previous posts that recommended minwax red mahogany stain and Fiebings dark brown leather dye. My question is which product do you think works best? Also do I have to remove the tung oil and 1/3 mix before I stain or can I stain over them. Keep in mind that I oiled the stock almost a month ago. Thanks and looking forward to your answers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gio Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Moose1023, Welcome to the board. You can find what you are looking for on" pinned Thompson FAQ; " . Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Moose1023 Posted January 31, 2012 Author Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Thank you Gio. I read that section but I was curious to know if I have to strip the stock back down or can I stain right over the tung oil and 1/3 mix. I was hoping that I could just apply the stain to the stock without having to strip it and sand it down but I don't want to ruin it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james m Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 IMO: You'll have to strip it down and start over.Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnshooter Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 There is information on the elusive red hue on the CMP refinishing link listed in the pinned threads,and lots of finishing suggestions on other military rifle collectors sites.You should avoid using sandpaper, except for the very lightest touch to remove any whiskers; even thenfine steel wool, or one of the scotchbrite pads, all used as little as necessary, work as well, and doesn'tleave a chance of steel bits in the pores, which can show up as rust long after the finish is applied. You should avoid the posts that advocate oven cleaner as a stripper; it will soften the wood fibers,and can leave residues in the pores of the wood, along with a sick yellow color. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gio Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 I have finished several Thompson stocks and had very good luck using the oven cleaner. I don't keep it on very long just enough time to remove the old gook. Be sure to let it dry good. Then I sand . Before applying stain I blow stock of with compressed air and wipe with tack rag. The main thing is taking your time and letting the wood dry before next step. I wouldn't do this on a Colt because you would want the patina. Hay just my 2 cents. There is always more than one way to skin a cat. Frank Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james m Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Ditto to Gio's comments. I've managed to pull gunk out of military stocks with oven cleaner that nothing else would remove. None of my stocks are soft as the result of this.Jim Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TSMGguy Posted January 31, 2012 Report Share Posted January 31, 2012 Yeah, you're gonna get to start over, if you want a really nice job. I keep the process simple: Strip the present finish with Stryp-Eze. Then sand the flats, working with the grain only, with 150 grit sand paper wrapped around a small wooden block. The block prevents the waviness in the wood surface common with hand sanding. Gently hand sand the compound curves, without the block this time, again working with the grain, not across it. Buff the sanded stock with fine steel wool, #0000. Then, stain with Olympic special walnut oil based stain (slightly reddish), or dark walnut (no red) according to the directions on the can. Water based stains are great for the environment (I hear) but IMHO they just don't work worth a c**p on gun stocks. Let dry throughly, over several days. Oil to taste, keeping in mind that these guns did not come from the factory with the stocks oiled. I don't oil my military stocks at all. I just buff them with a clean cloth. Very shortly, the wood picks up a nice natural sheen from handling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUTTERRATT Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) I use Fromby Furniture refinisher to strip the old oil and stain out of my stocks. It wont dry out the wood and leaves the natural oils in the wood. Then you can steam out your dings and do some light sanding to finish your prep. Edited February 2, 2012 by GUTTERRATT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RoscoeTurner Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 One common mistake to avoid when refinishing military stocks - don't over do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bug Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) Birchwood Casey has a water (and alcohol) based Walnut stain that gives a real nice look. Just a hint of red in with the walnut color. Use over raw or well preped wood. Follow with BLO and you're good to go. Remember, just about all of the commercial wood finishes will seal the wood. This prevents anything else from penetrating. That can be a good thing or a bad thing depending on what you're after finishwise. And most important as Roscoe states above, don't over do it..... Bob D Edited February 2, 2012 by bug Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AlexanderA Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 The new replacement Thompson buttstocks that are commonly available are carved oversize (that is, they slightly overhang the buttplate, sling swivel base, etc.). Therefore, it might be best to fit these parts first, and sand the stock to finished size, before trying to refinish it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GUTTERRATT Posted February 2, 2012 Report Share Posted February 2, 2012 (edited) The new replacement Thompson buttstocks that are commonly available are carved oversize (that is, they slightly overhang the buttplate, sling swivel base, etc.). Therefore, it might be best to fit these parts first, and sand the stock to finished size, before trying to refinish it. That is excellent advice. I have come to find no 2 butt stock plates are exactly the same when it comes to fitting the butt stock. Edited February 2, 2012 by GUTTERRATT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul in PA Posted February 4, 2012 Report Share Posted February 4, 2012 The oven cleaner trick get the greatest amount of grime and oil out of the stock. I use it on any military stock I am attempting to refinish. As for stain, I have used Chestnut Ridge Stain for the last 15 years on USGI military weapons. http://www.chestnutridge.com/products/misc.asp I am looking into buying Fairtimmers from Brownells, because of the discount for C&R holders and to have only a single shipping fee (cut costs). But I have heard good things about it. Fairtrimmers MILITARY oX STOCK OIL from Brownells http://www.brownells.com/.aspx/pid=42368/Product/MILITARY-oX-STOCK-OIL The last Garand I did with Chestnut Ridge Stain and got a fantastic red hue on a walnut stock. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OCM Posted August 23, 2012 Report Share Posted August 23, 2012 Is Fairtrimmers OX a good substitute for boiled Lindseed oil on a 1928 Overstamp Thompson. I was thinking of using it on my 1918 BAR but wondered if it would work for the thompson- Concerned about color change if there is any tint in it.Normally just hand rub with BLO, but might try this if you guys give a thought about it. Thanks, OCM Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeaconKC Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 The Minwax Mahagony is a very red color. Look at some original finish Mosin Nagant rifle. It is an almost perfect match. A few coats of oil over that makes a very rich finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mnshooter Posted August 24, 2012 Report Share Posted August 24, 2012 (edited) The Minwax Mahagony is a very red color. Look at some original finish Mosin Nagant rifle. It is an almost perfect match. A few coats of oil over that makes a very rich finish. Hey, that photo is the scene where Joe Friday shot a guy in the laundromat, then they couldn't find the bad guy's fired bullet, because it had bumped up under a shelf and lodged in the wall.Wish I could have a fraction of those brain cells back for other uses. Edited August 24, 2012 by mnshooter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandman1957 Posted August 26, 2012 Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 I am refining a stock today. Here is a comparison shot of the buttstock and front handgrip I refinished yesterday. The lower is a WWII parts kit with the pistol grip original / untouched. I refinished the buttstock and handgrip yesterday. The buttstock is the one that came on the WWII parts kit, but was a yellowish color and was in bad shape. The front grip is an after market that is not made of walnut. (different wood, different starting colors). I used FORMBY's Conditioning Furniture Refinisher and followed very simple instructions. It was very easy to use, and I was very happy with the outcome. I then stained the wood using Bownells VANDERHAVE FORMULA XIII STAIN. (500-104-003). I did not use any other stains. Put a few more coats on the front grip to get them to match. Very pleased with the results. Note, I have not yet put any other finish on the parts yet. Just reassembled to take these photos. I am going to do the other stock in the photo today. That stock came on the West hurley when I purchased it. will take some step by step photos as I go along. Hope this helps. So far i am very happy with the color that the Brownells stain provided, and the ease of the FORMBY's Furniture refinisher.Cheers,Sandman1957 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandman1957 Posted August 26, 2012 Report Share Posted August 26, 2012 Here are a few photos of what i finished today. Pictures are Golden stock and handguard, Stock stripped and stock stained. last photo shows the stripper and stain detailed above. BLUF, very simple to use and quick. had about 20 minutes btwn stripping and staining. have not yet put any boiled linseed oil on it. Will wait a day or two. have to do other chores now. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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